Vlorë, Apollonia and Zvernec Island, A holiday between Venetian houses and seaside strolls

We’ve stayed a Month in Vlorë, and these are the things we recommend. Please note : in this blog, nothing has been sponsored or paid for, it’s our honest opinion.

Vlorë, located in the southwest of Albania, is a city where history, the sea, and modernity meet. The history of Vlora goes back to antiquity, as it was originally a Greek colony named Aulon, and later became an important Roman port. Having been dominated by various civilizations, it plays a key role in Albanian history. In fact, it was here that independence was proclaimed on November 28, 1912. As the country’s second largest port, it attracts both travelers looking for beaches and those eager to discover an authentic destination. Centrally located, it’s the perfect city to explore the south — both mountains and coastline.

The city is developing fast, and you can feel tourism quickly making its mark. You do need to search a little to find authentic spots that haven’t been shaped too much by tourism yet. It’s not really a city for wandering aimlessly through charming streets — there are few that aren’t dominated by tall apartment blocks.

A city between two seas

Vlorë is famous for its unique location: it’s here that the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian Sea. From the Llogara Pass, the view is spectacular: on one side, the lighter waters of the Adriatic, on the other, the deep blues of the Ionian. Looking out at the sea, the city’s right-hand side is sandy beaches, while the left-hand side is pebbly, with stunning turquoise water.

Vlorë is the ideal starting point for exploring the Albanian Riviera.

A strong historical heritage

As the symbolic city of Albanian independence, Vlorë is home to the Independence Museum, located in the very house where independence was proclaimed in 1912.

And speaking of history, here are two things we recommend if you’re staying in Vlora for a few days:

Apollonia: A timeless archaeological site with incredible views and breathtaking history. It’s about a 30–40 minute drive away, but we highly recommend it as it reminds us of Tuscany.
Go there late morning, because right on site you’ll find a lovely restaurant: Bar Restaurant Léon Rey. It’s very peaceful, with a gorgeous view.
Dogs are allowed, but be aware there’s very little shade. We went off-season in the morning, so the temperature was fine, but if you can leave your dog in a cool place, it’s probably better.

Kaninë Castle: Perched high on a hill, it offers a spectacular view over the surrounding mountains and the sea.

Vlorë today

The city is experiencing a real revival. The waterfront promenade has recently been renovated, lined with palm trees, cafés, and restaurants. It’s a beautiful place to stroll at sunset. Local gastronomy focuses heavily on seafood. At the same time, in 2025, the city is still very much under construction, with tall new apartment blocks rising along the beaches.

Where to eat or grab a coffee in Vlora

Taking a real coffee break is almost an institution in Albania. Locals love meeting up in cafés to spend time together. Here are some restaurants and cafés we tried with my partner, along with our humble opinions:

Eat:

Sofra Tradicionale Vlorë: We loved it! Not in the best location and not fancy at all, but exactly what we were looking for. We wanted authentic local food — and it was delicious. The server spoke little English but was very kind. We recommend it especially for the warm welcome.
Beluga Restaurant & Bar & Brunch: We went the first night and loved the view. The restaurant is stylish and modern, a spontaneous stop after walking along the beach. We really enjoyed it; prices were reasonable. We had chicken, so we can’t vouch for the fish, but the menu changes with the daily catch.

Coffee / Drinks:

Café Roel: We met up with an Albanian friend here who really likes the place. It’s one of the many cafés along the promenade. They make good fresh orange juice (recommended by our friend Xhulio). Bonus points for the little quotes they include with your coffee (hopefully recycled between customers). Mine read: “One day, you will be in the right place, at the right time, with the right person.” What a lovely way to start a trip. 💚
Kuzum Baba: At the top of the hill, this spot gives a panoramic view — mostly of buildings, but still fascinating. You can also visit the Tekke, an important Bektashi temple. Kuzum Baba was a spiritual leader, and the terrace is beautiful. If you only have one day, it’s not a must, but if you have extra time, it’s worth a stop for coffee.
Kafe Da Kapo: On a street parallel to the promenade. We liked it a lot — the waitress was super friendly and laughed with all the regulars. Nice and green, not overdone like some tourist cafés. It overlooks a roundabout instead of the sea, but we recommend it for local vibes.
Antik Caffee: Lovely décor (that’s what drew us in), but maybe a bit lacking in authenticity.
Gallery Art Café: Quieter than Antik Caffee, charming and very pretty. The waitress was warm and welcoming.

Beaches for every taste

Urban beaches: Close to the center, easily accessible on foot. Perfect for a quick swim. Looking at the sea, on the right side of the port it’s calmer and frequented by older locals — you can even buy fresh fish there in the morning. On the left side, beaches are busier and more developed.
“Wild” beaches: Heading towards Radhimë or Orikum, beaches are quieter and still a bit unspoiled. Just after the short tunnel, you’ll find many pebbly beaches with crystal-clear water.
Karaburun & Sazan: For an unforgettable excursion, take a boat trip to Karaburun Peninsula and Sazan Island, with its military past now overtaken by nature (though rumors say the Trump family has an eye on it!). Tours start at around €20 and can be found all along the promenade. For the lowest prices without haggling, we recommend booking [here] (this is an affiliate link 💚 by clicking and reserving through this link you support this blog. So, in advance, thank you for supporting our content).

Our favorite beach: Sundown Beach Bar, set in a pine forest. The sand is soft, and you feel immersed in nature — unlike the city beaches bordered by buildings.

The old town

The old town is charming, perfect for a coffee or a lunch. With colorful Venetian-style houses, it feels timeless. We recommend Antik Bar, which is stunning — more touristy than local, but still worth a visit. A little further out, you’ll find plenty of authentic cafés and shops.

Hiking in nature

If you’re like us and love climbing higher and spending time outdoors:

Llogara Pass: You’ll need a car to get there, but the hike is absolutely worth it! Check out our article on this park and the GPX link for the trail here.
Dalan beach Hike : 100% would recommend. The views are absolutely stunning, the hike quite easy… it’s probably my favourite thing to do in Vlora. Here you’ll find a GPX and map to the hike.

Zvernec Peninsula: one of Albania’s hidden gems

The Zvernec Peninsula is one of those treasures where nature invites peace and contemplation. That’s why I decided to dedicate a big part of this article to it! ✨💙

🌅 Zvernec, a timeless landscape

Just a few kilometers from Vlorë, the Zvernec Peninsula is a haven of peace where nature and history blend perfectly. This enchanting place, still untouched by mass tourism, captivates visitors seeking serenity and breathtaking scenery. We recommend going in the evening to catch the golden sunset light.

Connected to the mainland by a wooden footbridge crossing the calm waters of the Narta Lagoon, the peninsula seems to float above the water—like a secret world suspended in time. Here, silence is broken only by birdsong. And if you’re lucky, you may spot the endemic flamingos.

⛪ St. Mary’s Monastery: a spiritual oasis

At the heart of this natural sanctuary stands the Orthodox Byzantine Monastery of St. Mary, dating back to the 13th century. Its stone walls, steeped in history, shelter a small church decorated with authentic ancient frescoes. Still active today, the monastery sometimes hosts religious ceremonies, adding to the atmosphere of serenity and reverence. It’s a perfect spot for a meditative break—or simply to admire its timeless architecture.

Fun fact ✔️ : Two flags welcome you. An Albanian flag 🇦🇱 and an orthodoxe one.

🚗 How to get there?

By car or taxi from Vlorë. Renting a bike is also possible—I didn’t try it myself, but I recommend it, as the road runs through a peaceful forest and makes for a beautiful ride! 🚴‍♂️

More General Practical tips

Access: Vlorë is about a 2.5-hour drive from Tirana. A new international airport is under construction, which will boost its accessibility.
When to go? May, June, September, and October are perfect for good weather without the summer crowds.
Where to stay? From family-run hotels to sea-view apartments, Vlorë still offers good value. To be well located, stay near the waterfront promenade (on Google Maps). We stayed in a neighborhood close enough to walk to the promenade but far enough to have the beach almost to ourselves at sunset. Our area was near the Portside Hotel.

(Side note: We booked an apartment with a large balcony and sea view… but now only 50% of it looks at the sea, the other half faces a new construction! Check recent reviews or ask the owner directly if you want to be sure about the view, as it can change monthly. Here’s the link to our rental: spacious, though a bit pricey for Albania in terms of value.)

📩 After reading this article, still have questions about Vlora — where to stay, what to do? Feel free to email us, we’ll be happy to help!
Learn more about Albania here